You’re standing in a garden centre, staring at two bags that look nearly identical. One says “topsoil,” one says “compost,” and neither label really explains when you’d use it. If you’ve ever just grabbed one and hoped for the best — you’re not alone.
The compost vs topsoil question matters more than most people realise. Pick the wrong one and you’ll either starve your plants of nutrients or end up with a bed that drains poorly and barely grows anything. Pick the right one — or better yet, the right combination of both — and your garden will genuinely take off. In many cases, the difference between weak, struggling plants and explosive growth comes down to understanding this one soil decision correctly.
This guide covers what each one does, when to use them, and how to combine them — so you can buy the right thing and use it correctly.
Quick answer: Compost improves soil fertility and biology. Topsoil provides structure and volume. Compost feeds plants; topsoil supports root growth. Most gardens perform best with both — topsoil as the base, compost worked through the upper root zone.
If you’re unsure where to start: use compost to improve existing soil, and topsoil when you need to build or fill new growing areas.
What Is Compost?
Compost is what happens when organic material — kitchen scraps, fallen leaves, grass clippings, vegetable peelings — breaks down through microbial activity. The result is a dark, crumbly, earthy-smelling soil amendment that’s one of the most useful things you can add to any garden bed.
It’s rich in nutrients, full of beneficial microorganisms, and improves soil structure in two directions at once — helping sandy soils retain moisture while loosening heavy clay. Most soil amendments fix one problem and create another; compost does both.
What Is Compost Made Of?
Good compost comes from layering “greens” (nitrogen-rich materials like food scraps and fresh grass clippings) with “browns” (carbon-rich materials like dried leaves, cardboard, and straw). Microbes break this mix down over weeks or months into finished compost.
Finished compost looks uniform and smells like forest floor. Unfinished compost ties up soil nitrogen as it continues breaking down — always make sure what you’re using is properly matured.
Types of Compost
- Homemade compost — variable quality depending on what went in, but often the best when well-made
- Bagged garden compost — convenient, consistent, widely available at garden centres and hardware stores worldwide
- Mushroom compost — spent substrate from mushroom farming; high in organic matter but can be alkaline, so check your soil pH first
- Worm castings (vermicompost) — incredibly nutrient-dense, excellent for seedlings and containers; pricier but worth it for small applications
- Composted manure — well-aged animal manure; effective and affordable in bulk, though quality varies by source
Nutritional Profile of Compost
Compost has a low but balanced NPK ratio — around 1-1-1 — but those nutrients release slowly over months, feeding plants consistently. It also delivers micronutrients, improves cation exchange capacity, and introduces beneficial fungi and bacteria. Healthy compost feeds soil microbes, fungi, and earthworms that convert nutrients into forms plant roots can absorb more efficiently. This is why experienced gardeners talk about “feeding the soil, not the plant.”
How to Tell if Compost or Topsoil Is Low Quality Before You Buy
Poor-quality compost and cheap topsoil are common — and buying the wrong material can set your garden back by a full season. Here’s what to check before spending anything.
Compost Red Flags
- Sour or rotten smell — finished compost smells earthy, like forest floor. Ammonia or rotten egg odour means it’s still decomposing or gone anaerobic.
- Visible undecomposed scraps — identifiable food, twigs, or paper means it’s unfinished. Unfinished compost temporarily locks up soil nitrogen as it continues breaking down.
- Slimy or matted texture — good compost is moist but crumbly. A slimy texture means it was stored wet without airflow.
- Mostly wood chips — high bark content means low nutrient value and potential nitrogen depletion as it decomposes in your soil.
- Very hot bags or steaming piles — still actively decomposing. Needs more time before it’s safe to use around plants.
- Fungus gnats or visible pests — a sign of unfinished, nitrogen-rich material. Fine in a compost bin, not in your garden beds.
Topsoil Red Flags
- Grey or pale colour — quality topsoil is dark brown. Pale or yellow-tinged soil is low in organic matter and poor for planting.
- Sticky, dense clay texture — soil that clumps solid when wet and cracks when dry will compact badly and suffocate roots.
- Debris, rocks, or construction material — low-grade fill dirt is often labelled as topsoil. If you see rubble or plastic fragments, avoid it.
- Weed roots running through it — means it came from weed-infested ground. Expect a difficult first season.
- Swampy or chemical smell — indicates waterlogged source material or contamination.
Quick smell test: Good compost smells like damp woodland; good topsoil smells like fresh earth after rain. If either smells sour, swampy, or like nothing — buy elsewhere.
What Is Topsoil?
Topsoil is the top layer of soil — typically 5 to 20 cm (2 to 8 inches) deep. It’s a mix of mineral particles (sand, silt, clay) with some organic matter. Unlike compost, its job is structure and volume, not feeding plants. If you’re filling a raised bed, levelling a lawn patch, or establishing grass from scratch — topsoil is what you reach for.
Topsoil provides the physical base that plants grow in. On its own it has limited nutrients, but it holds compost and fertilisers well and gives roots the space and stability they need to develop.
What Is Topsoil Made Of?
Quality topsoil has a balanced mix of sand, silt, and clay in a loam ratio — drains well but retains some moisture. Some products labelled “topsoil” are essentially screened fill dirt with minimal organic content. When buying in bulk, always check source, colour, and smell before committing.
Simple Soil Texture Test: Is Your Soil Clay, Sand, or Loam?
Before adding either compost or topsoil, it helps to know what you’re starting with. Grab a handful of slightly damp soil and squeeze it firmly in your palm:
- If it forms a hard, sticky ball that holds its shape — you have clay-heavy soil. It compacts easily, drains poorly, and needs compost to open up the structure.
- If it falls apart immediately and feels gritty between your fingers — your soil is sandy. It drains too fast, loses nutrients quickly, and needs compost to hold moisture.
- If it holds together loosely but crumbles when you poke it — you have loamy soil, the ideal for most gardens. Even here, annual compost keeps it biologically active.
Compost improves all three types, just in different ways: it loosens clay, helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients, and feeds the biology in loam. Knowing your soil type tells you how much compost you actually need — and whether topsoil is even part of the equation.
Types of Topsoil
- Screened topsoil — passed through a mesh to remove rocks and clumps; cleaner and easier to work with
- Unscreened topsoil — cheaper, but may contain debris and variable particle sizes
- Premium blended topsoil — often pre-mixed with compost or amendments for better fertility
- Sandy topsoil — drains fast, useful for some root vegetables, but dries out quickly
- Loamy topsoil — ideal for most gardens; balanced drainage and moisture retention
Compost vs Topsoil vs Garden Soil vs Potting Mix — What’s the Difference?
Gardeners often encounter all four of these at once. Here’s the clearest way to tell them apart:
| Product | What it is | Best used for | Use alone? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compost | Decomposed organic matter | Improving existing beds, feeding plants | Rarely — amend into soil |
| Topsoil | Natural upper-layer earth | Filling, levelling, new garden builds | Yes, but amend for best results |
| Garden soil | Blended topsoil + compost + amendments | In-ground beds, raised beds | Yes — ready to plant |
| Potting mix | Lightweight peat/coir + perlite blend | Containers, pots, seed starting | Yes — designed for containers |
The practical rule: potting mix stays in pots, topsoil goes in the ground, garden soil bridges both, and compost improves all of them.
Compost vs Topsoil — Key Differences at a Glance
Here’s the simplified version first — then the full side-by-side breakdown below.
| Compost | Topsoil |
|---|---|
| Feeds plants | Builds structure |
| High organic matter | Mineral-heavy |
| Improves soil biology | Adds volume |
| Slow-release nutrients | Physical growing base |
| Best for existing beds | Best for new builds |
| Use annually | Use once as foundation |
| Feature | Compost | Topsoil |
|---|---|---|
| Primary purpose | Feed plants, improve soil biology | Add volume, build structure |
| Nutrient content | High (slow-release) | Low to moderate |
| Organic matter | Very high (nearly 100%) | Low (varies by source) |
| Soil structure | Improves drainage and aeration | Provides bulk and base |
| pH effect | Near neutral (6.5–7.0) | Varies by source |
| Typical cost (bagged) | Higher per unit volume | Lower per unit volume |
| Typical cost (bulk) | More expensive per cubic metre | Less expensive per cubic metre |
| Best used for | Existing beds, soil improvement | New builds, filling, levelling |
| Use alone? | Sometimes (thin layer applications) | Not ideal — needs amendments |
pH Effects — Why It Matters
Compost buffers soil pH toward neutral (6.5–7.0), suiting most vegetables and flowering plants. Topsoil pH varies widely by source — acidic or alkaline topsoil can significantly affect plant health. For any new garden build, a basic soil test is worth doing first. According to Penn State Extension, it reveals pH, phosphorus, potassium, and organic matter levels — everything you need before deciding what to add.
Quick Decision Guide: Which Should You Choose?
If you want a fast answer before diving into the detail — here it is:
| Your Goal | Best Option |
|---|---|
| Improve poor or depleted soil | Compost |
| Fill raised beds affordably | Topsoil (bulk) + compost mixed in |
| Grow vegetables | Both (60/30/10 mix) |
| Overseed or repair lawn | Compost |
| Level yard or new garden build | Topsoil |
| Containers and pots | Potting mix + compost |
| Fix clay or sandy soil | Compost (as soil conditioner) |
| Reduce fertiliser dependence | Compost (annual top-dressing) |
Which Is Better for Gardening — Compost or Topsoil?
Neither is better overall — they serve completely different roles. Compost feeds plants and improves existing soil. Topsoil adds bulk and structure for new builds or large fills. The best approach for most home gardens is to use both: topsoil as the base layer and compost worked into the top portion where roots actively feed.
The question isn’t really “which is better” — it’s “which does my garden need right now?”
When Compost Is the Better Choice
Use compost when improving existing beds, fixing clay or sandy soil, reducing fertiliser dependence, starting seeds, or growing heavy-feeding crops like tomatoes, squash, or maize.
When Topsoil Is the Better Choice
Use topsoil when building new raised beds, levelling lawn patches, filling large areas at low cost, establishing turf from scratch, or when existing soil is extremely poor or stripped away.
Compost vs Topsoil by Garden Type — Use This If…
| Garden Type | Best Choice | Recommended Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Vegetable garden (established) | Compost | Add a 5–8 cm (2–3 in) layer and work in before planting |
| New raised bed | Both | 60% topsoil + 30% compost + 10% perlite or coarse grit |
| Lawn overseeding | Compost preferred | Thin layer (about 6 mm / ¼ in); compost feeds new seed better |
| Flower beds | Compost | Work 5 cm (2 in) into top 15 cm (6 in) of existing bed |
| New garden build (in-ground) | Topsoil first, then compost | 15–20 cm (6–8 in) topsoil base, 5–8 cm (2–3 in) compost on top |
| Containers / pots | Neither alone | Use potting mix; add 20–25% compost for nutrients |
| Trees and shrubs | Compost | Mix 25–30% compost into backfill when planting |
Compost vs Topsoil for Raised Beds
Raised beds are where this question comes up most often — and the answer is both, in the right ratio. A practical mix is roughly 60% topsoil, 30% compost, and 10% coarse material like perlite or grit for drainage. Some gardeners go heavier on compost (up to 40%) for vegetable beds, which works well but gets expensive at scale. Buying screened topsoil in bulk and adding bagged compost separately is usually the most cost-effective approach. Our Compost Calculator helps you work out exact quantities before you buy.
The #1 Raised Bed Soil Mistake Most Gardeners Make
The most common raised bed error is filling entirely with pure compost, cheap fill dirt, or too much manure with no structural material. Here’s what actually happens: pure compost beds shrink by up to 30% in a single season as organic matter decomposes. Roots suffocate in overly dense, moisture-retaining material. Nitrogen spikes, then crashes. Fungal problems follow.
Cheap fill dirt has the opposite problem — it compacts like concrete after the first few waterings, leaving roots nowhere to go.
The ideal raised bed mix:
- 60% quality screened topsoil — provides structure, weight, and a stable mineral base
- 30% mature compost — feeds plants, improves soil biology, adds organic matter
- 10% aeration material — perlite, horticultural grit, or coarse sand keeps drainage open as the bed settles
Compost vs Topsoil in Wet vs Dry Climates
In dry or arid climates, compost is especially valuable — it helps sandy or fast-draining soils retain moisture for longer between waterings, reducing irrigation needs significantly. In rainy or humid climates, soil structure and drainage take priority. Overly compost-heavy beds in wet regions can stay waterlogged if the mineral balance and airflow are poor, which suffocates roots and invites disease.
The ideal compost-to-topsoil ratio depends partly on your local rainfall patterns. Dry-climate gardeners can often go higher on compost (up to 40% in a raised bed mix); wet-climate gardeners are better served by a stronger topsoil base with compost as an annual top-dressing rather than a structural fill.
Expert insight: Experienced gardeners rarely add large amounts of fresh topsoil every year. Instead, they build long-term soil fertility gradually through repeated compost applications. Over several seasons, this creates darker, looser, biologically active soil that holds water better, supports more root growth, and requires less fertiliser than any single soil purchase could achieve.
Can You Mix Compost and Topsoil Together?
Yes — and it’s one of the most effective things you can do for your garden. Topsoil provides bulk and structure while compost delivers nutrients and organic matter. A general-purpose mix of 70% topsoil to 30% compost works well for most beds. For vegetable or raised beds, go closer to 60% topsoil and 40% compost.
Can You Put Compost Directly on Topsoil?
Yes — and in many gardens it’s actually preferred. Spreading compost on top of existing soil allows worms, microbes, water, and root activity to gradually pull nutrients downward naturally. This “top-dressing” method is especially popular in no-dig gardening systems because it improves soil structure and organic matter without disturbing the beneficial soil biology already present. A 2–5 cm (1–2 inch) layer spread across the surface each season is all most established beds need.
Ideal Mixing Ratios by Use
- General beds: 70% topsoil + 30% compost
- Vegetable / raised beds: 60% topsoil + 30% compost + 10% perlite or grit
- Lawn top-dressing: Pure compost or 50/50 compost and fine topsoil
- Tree backfill: 75% native soil + 25% compost
- Seedlings: Potting mix + 20–30% worm castings or fine compost (no topsoil)
How to Mix Compost and Topsoil
- Measure your bed and decide your ratio before buying
- Lay topsoil to depth — 10–15 cm for existing beds, 20–25 cm for new builds
- Spread compost evenly across the surface
- Fork or till through to 15–20 cm depth
- Rake smooth, water lightly, and allow to settle before planting
Our Compost Calculator works out exact quantities from your bed dimensions.
What Happens to Compost and Topsoil After One Growing Season?
Here’s a realistic timeline of what to expect after applying both:
| Timeframe | What Compost Does | What Topsoil Does |
|---|---|---|
| 1 month | Microbial activity ramps up; starts feeding soil organisms | Settles and compacts slightly under watering and gravity |
| 3 months | Slow-release nutrients become plant-available; soil colour darkens | Root structure stabilises; soil porosity becomes clearer |
| 6 months | Organic matter partially decomposes; volume visibly reduces | Drainage patterns establish; weed pressure from original soil becomes apparent |
| 12 months | Significant volume loss (up to 30%); soil noticeably richer and darker | Well-settled; may show compaction in high-traffic areas; benefits from compost top-dressing |
The key takeaway: compost disappears over time — that’s not a problem, it means it’s working. But it does mean annual replenishment matters. A 5 cm (2 inch) top-dressing each season is usually enough to maintain what you’ve built. Topsoil, by contrast, stays permanently — its mineral structure is stable. What changes is its fertility, which is why consistent compost addition is the single best thing you can do for long-term soil health.
How Much Compost or Topsoil Do You Need?
How Deep Should Topsoil Be for a Garden?
The right depth depends on what you’re growing:
- Leafy greens and herbs: 15 cm (6 inches) minimum
- Most vegetables and flowers: 20–25 cm (8–10 inches)
- Root vegetables (carrots, parsnips, beetroot): 30 cm (12 inches) or more
- Lawn: 10–15 cm (4–6 inches) for new establishment
For raised beds, aim for at least 30 cm (12 inches) total depth — shallower beds dry out faster and limit what you can grow.
How Much Compost Should I Add to My Garden?
Apply a 5–8 cm (2–3 inch) layer once or twice a year and work it into the top 15 cm (6 inches). A 5 cm (2 inch) compost layer is roughly the depth of two adult fingers laid side by side — a useful guide when spreading without a ruler. For new or depleted beds, up to 10 cm (4 inches) in the first season is fine. After that, annual 2–5 cm (1–2 inch) top-dressings maintain healthy organic matter levels. According to a peer-reviewed research review published in the National Institutes of Health (NIH) open-access library, consistent compost application is one of the strongest predictors of long-term soil organic carbon levels and garden productivity. Use our Compost Calculator for exact quantities.
Can Too Much Compost Be Bad?
One of the biggest gardening myths is that plants can never get too much compost. In reality, excessive compost can create the same imbalance problems as over-fertilising. Yes — too much compost can cause nutrient imbalances — particularly phosphorus build-up — which over time inhibits a plant’s ability to absorb other minerals. Very high concentrations can also lead to poor drainage, overly soft plant growth that attracts pests, and an unpredictable rise in soil pH. Most established garden beds only need a 2–5 cm (1–2 inch) compost layer annually. More is not always better, especially in already fertile soil.
When to Apply Compost vs Topsoil
Best Time to Add Compost
Compost can go in almost any time of year, but two windows work best regardless of climate:
- Before the growing season — 2–4 weeks ahead of planting
- After harvest — spread over empty beds to break down over the dormant period
Compost also works as a summer mulch — a thin layer suppresses weeds and slowly feeds the soil below.
Best Time to Add Topsoil
Best at the start of the growing season for new builds, or at the end for lawn repair and levelling. Avoid working topsoil into waterlogged ground — it compacts and damages the soil structure you’re trying to build.
Does Compost Replace the Need for Fertiliser?
Compost significantly reduces fertiliser needs but rarely eliminates them for heavy-feeding crops. It releases nutrients slowly — excellent for long-term soil health, but not always fast enough for nutrient-hungry plants mid-season. Think of compost as the foundation and fertiliser as the short-term fix: if your tomatoes are yellowing in summer, fertiliser acts faster. But if your soil is generally poor, two to three seasons of consistent compost will transform it more durably than any fertiliser programme.
For help calculating fertiliser applications alongside your compost, our Fertiliser Calculator is a useful companion. If you’re seeing unusual plant symptoms, our Plant Problem Finder can help diagnose what’s going on before you add more of anything.
Compost vs Topsoil Cost Comparison
Prices vary by region and supplier, but here’s the general cost hierarchy to guide your buying decisions:
| Material | Bagged cost (approx.) | Bulk cost (approx.) | Best value use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compost | Higher per litre/quart | Moderate per cubic metre/yard | Soil amendment, top-dressing, bed improvement |
| Topsoil | Lower per litre/quart | Cheapest per cubic metre/yard | Filling raised beds, levelling, new garden builds |
| Garden soil blend | Highest per litre/quart | Moderate per cubic metre/yard | Ready-to-plant beds where convenience matters |
| Potting mix | High per litre/quart | Not typically sold in bulk | Containers, seed trays, hanging baskets |
The smart buying strategy: purchase screened topsoil in bulk for volume, then add bagged or bulk compost to amend it. This gives better soil quality at lower total cost than pre-blended garden soil — and for large raised bed projects, can cut material costs by 30–50%. Always ask for a bulk compost sample before ordering a large delivery, and use our Compost Calculator to estimate volumes accurately before you buy.
Bagged vs Bulk Compost and Topsoil — Which Should You Buy?
| Option | Best For | Watch Out For |
|---|---|---|
| Bagged compost | Small beds, pots, topdressing | Higher cost per volume |
| Bulk compost | Large gardens, raised beds, big projects | Variable quality — always smell-test before accepting delivery |
| Bagged topsoil | Minor repairs, small level patches | Expensive for large volumes; often poor quality |
| Bulk topsoil | Large fills, new builds, landscaping | Ask for screened topsoil — unscreened can contain debris and weed roots |
Fresh bulk topsoil and compost often settle 10–20% after watering and rainfall, so it’s smart to order slightly more material than your exact calculated volume — rounding up by 15% is a reliable rule of thumb for large deliveries.
As a general rule: go bagged for convenience and quality control on small jobs; go bulk for any project needing more than 1–2 cubic metres. Bulk topsoil is almost always the cheapest way to get large volumes of growing medium. Bulk compost saves money but requires more due diligence on quality. Store any unused bulk material covered to prevent it drying out or waterlogging before use.
Common Mistakes When Using Compost or Topsoil
- Filling raised beds with pure compost — compost shrinks by up to 30% in a season, leaving beds compacted and nutrient-imbalanced. Always use a topsoil base.
- Buying cheap fill dirt labelled as topsoil — genuine screened topsoil is dark and crumbly. Pale, heavy fill dirt compacts like concrete and has almost no organic matter. Check colour, smell, and texture before buying.
- Using unfinished compost — immature compost locks up soil nitrogen as it continues decomposing, causing plants to yellow and growth to stall. Only use fully finished, earthy-smelling compost.
- Using topsoil or garden soil in containers — both compact and waterlog rapidly in pots. Use purpose-made potting mix with compost added for nutrition.
- Adding too much compost annually — excess compost leads to phosphorus build-up and can unpredictably alter pH. The standard 5–8 cm (2–3 inch) application is enough for most beds.
- Ignoring drainage — adding soil amendments on top of poorly draining ground creates a deeper waterlogged layer. Fix drainage first, then amend.
Is Compost More Sustainable Than Buying Topsoil?
From an environmental standpoint, compost has a clear advantage. It converts organic waste — kitchen scraps, garden trimmings, agricultural by-products — into a productive soil amendment, diverting material from landfill and reducing methane emissions from decomposing food waste. The soil biology it supports — bacteria, fungi, earthworms — makes plants more disease-resistant and better at accessing water, reducing the need for synthetic inputs.
Topsoil is finite — quality topsoil takes centuries to form. Large-scale harvesting degrades ecosystems and destroys microbial communities. It’s worth asking where bulk topsoil originates before you buy.
The most sustainable approach: use topsoil only where volume is genuinely needed, and rely on compost — ideally homemade or locally sourced — for annual improvement. Over time, this builds a self-sustaining soil system that needs fewer bought inputs each season.
Frequently Asked Questions — Compost vs Topsoil
1. Can I use compost instead of topsoil?
Not as a full substitute. Pure compost beds shrink, dry out quickly, and get expensive at scale. For any bed deeper than 10 cm (4 inches), use a topsoil base with compost mixed into the upper layer.
2. Which is better for a vegetable garden — compost or topsoil?
Compost for established beds; both for new builds. A 60/30/10 mix of topsoil, compost, and perlite or horticultural grit is the gold standard for productive vegetable growing.
3. Should I put topsoil or compost on top of grass seed?
Compost — lighter, better draining, and it feeds the grass as it establishes. If using topsoil, apply no more than 6 mm (¼ inch) or it blocks germination. For bare spots, a 50/50 blend of fine topsoil and compost works well.
4. What is the difference between topsoil, compost, and garden soil?
Topsoil is natural ground-sourced earth — mineral-heavy with some organic matter. Compost is decomposed organic material high in nutrients and biology. Garden soil is a manufactured blend of both, ready to plant into. Potting mix is soil-free and lightweight — designed for containers only. Never use topsoil or compost alone in pots; drainage fails quickly.
5. Is it OK to mix compost and topsoil together?
It’s the recommended approach. A 70/30 ratio (topsoil to compost) works for most beds; 60/40 for raised vegetable beds. Blend thoroughly to at least 15 cm (6 inches) depth for best results.
6. How much compost should I add to my garden?
Apply a 5–8 cm (2–3 inch) layer once or twice a year, worked into the top 15 cm (6 inches). New or depleted beds can take up to 10 cm (4 inches) in the first season. After that, annual 2–5 cm (1–2 inch) top-dressings are enough.
7. Does compost replace the need for fertiliser?
It reduces the need significantly, but not fully for heavy feeders. Compost releases nutrients slowly — great long-term, but not fast enough mid-season for hungry crops. Use compost as your base and add organic fertiliser when plants show deficiency signs.
8. How deep does topsoil need to be for a garden?
20–25 cm (8–10 inches) for most vegetables and flowers. Leafy greens and herbs can manage with 15 cm (6 inches). Root vegetables need 30 cm (12 inches) or more. New lawns: 10–15 cm (4–6 inches) is standard worldwide.
Final Verdict — Compost vs Topsoil
Compost and topsoil aren’t rivals — they’re a team. Topsoil gives your garden depth and physical structure. Compost gives it life, nutrients, and the biological activity that turns ordinary soil into something plants genuinely thrive in.
If you’re building something new, start with topsoil. If you’re improving what already exists, reach for compost. For raised beds and new vegetable plots, mix them 2:1 or 3:1 for a growing medium that performs well from the first season.
Before you buy, use our Compost Calculator to work out exact quantities based on your bed size. And if you’re planning a new vegetable garden, our Vegetable Garden Layout tool will help you map it all out before you dig a single hole.